Greetings, Blossoms! I did a post on giving your locs a clean start a few months ago and wanted to revisit the topic. I had a client whose locs I had recently started and would be maintaining so I will be able to journal her progress and give you a closer look at my loc maintenance routine!
Like I said in my prior post, Give Your Locs A Clean Start, I believe in cleansing/shampooing regularly during the locking process. On a whim, I decided to film the parts of the re-twisting process that I could so you could see how it all works!
This first video shows the clients new growth since her last visit with me about 3 weeks ago. She was even able to shampoo one time on her own between visits!
The next video is her hair after being shampooed and conditioned with Hair Garden products. I started her locking process on 6/2/2015 ad you can already see some budding beginning around mid-length of the loc. Notice how the hair is meshing together even after it is freshly shampooed and free of product!
Here is her hair all twisted and ready to go under the dryer!
A view of the side.
This last video shows the final results of the loc re-twist. I re-twisted her hair using Hair Garden’s “Herbal Tea” tree-tment and a small amount of EcoStyler. I let her sit under the hair dryer for about 20-25 minutes and then removed the clips. It takes about a week before the twists begin to frizz again and look a little messy. Within 2 to 3 weeks, it is time for another cleansing and retwisting!
My future videos will be a lot better because I finally invested in a tripod!! Feel free to ask any questions below!!
Greetings! Today I had the privilege of starting locs for a client.This lovely lady has been natural for a little over a year and had always longed for locs! Her hair and scalp were in healthy condition and ready to begin the locking process!
Before we got started, I shampooed her hair with Hair Garden Cleanser and Conditioned with Mango Punch. I mixed some Herbal “Tea” tree-tment in a spray bottle to maintain moisture during the twisting process an a quarter sized dollop of EcoStyler Gel. I then sectioned and secured her hair to begin!
The process was quick and easy. It only took me about an hour and a half and she was on her way out of the door!
She will be ready for a freshening and re-twist in 2-3 weeks. In between visits, she can keep her scalp clean with witch hazel or aloe vera. When she returns I WILL shampoo her hair. I cleanse locs on every visit during the locking process.
I am excited about her beginning her locking process and a glad to be part of it! I have started many heads locs and feel the save love for them all! I always take it as a personal honor when someone asks me to begin their loc journey for them. It is the “birthing” stage of their locs and how they are started and maintained will determine the health and final look of your locs!
When it comes to locking hair, I am strong believer in technique and not relying heavily on product. Many people want quick results in eager anticipation of wearing their lovely locked styles and are willing to try almost anything. Stylists want to give those quick results and they end up doing what I call “plastering the hair together” rather than letting it lock naturally as it will eventually do anyway. I compare it “plastering” because of the dependence of the product to lock the hair rather than maintenance techniques.
Why you don’t need tons of product. A majority of the clients who sit in my chair for locs will have some sort of curl or wave pattern (I will discuss locking straighter and resistant hair textures in another post). This type of hair naturally forms some type of helix. The job of the stylist is the aid the matting process of the cylindrically formed tendrils. The hair is going to lock! What you don’t want is the remaining buildup of the waxy, sticky products that have been repeatedly in your newly formed and maturing locs.
Where the trouble begins. The most common method I see many stylists use to start locs is the coil or comb twist method with a locking product. It is best done on wet or damp hair and product is used to smooth and reinforce the coil. Many are convinced that they have to go the 6 week to almost even 9 months without cleansing their hair for it to lock!!! I’ve seen people attempt to go longer, don’t do this!!! This is where the initial trouble begins.
How the problem becomes worse. Along with the product being trapped in your hair with no release, you are also trapping your personal debris (scalp flakes, sweat, natural oils etc), environmental debris and everything else in your hair. The pH of your scalp is now changing to help battle some of this growing amount of debris being left of the scalp. This for some causes increased irritation and can lead to some infections of the scalp that could even become chronic. I have had to clarify so many heads of locked hair that have come my way due to these tactics. I have started locks of all hair textures and sizes while still cleansing the hair regularly with water and cleanser.
You didn’t listen now look what happened. In my opinion, some natural things are fine to use in the hair as long as the hair is being cleansed regularly. Keep in mind that even with regular cleansing, due to the meshing of the hair, you may not be able to remove all traces of product. Also, you want to consider the lifestyle and scalp condition of the person that you are using these products on especially if you are suggesting that they do not cleanse the hair with water and cleanser. I have had clients that have had their locs started with everything from honey, shea butter, beeswax/wax (I despise it) along with a combination of locking products that eventually cause what I like to call “loc sludge”. Loc sludge can affect the health, color, smell, weight, manageability, etc of your locs. This sludge can be found my wringing the locs once they have become saturated with warm water and a little bit of clarifier. It’s not a pretty sight.
An alternative to water? The dry shampooing is a good option also, but in my opinion, only to an extent. Yes, the scalp is clean but what about the debris collected in the loc itself? It will only find its way right back to the scalp and it will continue to collect more buildup with continued application of product during maintenance and grooming.
What should be used then, know it all? When it comes to loc maintenance, I like to go for more natural options such as aloe, oils, light butters, and even some light, alcohol-free gels. I prefer products that rinse clean from the hair and are safe to be absorbed by the body. I keep the products used in the hair as simple as possible because the client should be carrying positive energy in their locs, not sludge!!
Below is a picture of one of the gels that I recommend and is a favorite of mine for locs.
Questions and comments are welcomed! Thank you for stopping by The Hair Garden!